Luis Valdizon photo credit.
I have this really bad habit of buying canvases and sketchbooks and doing nothing with them.
The infinite possibilities that could decorate them unfurl a process that is sometimes too intimidating to begin.
The chance that I might end up working so hard and end up with something that I can't stand, bothers me immensely.
Sometimes I feel that way about beginning a piece of writing for this blog, or for a new dish that I want to experiment with.
With food, it's usually easier to get the inspiration ball rolling.
I think of one ingredient, component, or cooking method that I really like, then shut everything else out, and the ideas come pouring in.
When that fails, I throw garlic and onions in a pan, because that's how 90,000 of the most wonderful foods begin, and then I let my hands figure out the rest.
But now and then, something special happens, and for as many endless words there are waiting to burst out of my head, I am speechless.
Luis Valdizon photo credit.
I don't want to think that I won't do justice of something very deserving.
I don't want to think that one day I will run out of thoughts and ideas that are worth carrying out.
The flow gets interrupted, or I don't know where to begin, and that's what I'm dealing with right now.
This has been a very hectic week. The only goal that I set was to take a bath.
Soak in a tub and think of nothing, until my feet feel more like feet, and less like dinosaur skin.
It totally didn't happen, and I'm endlessly grateful.
Over the years I have become better at The Art of Saying No To People, but once in a blue moon, life drops an unbelievable opportunity into your hands, and it's up to you to say no and wonder what if, or say yes and then find a way to make everything happen. Resistance...is futile.
Scout Magazine photo credit.Luis and I recently bought a huge canister of the most beautiful olive oil we have ever tasted. It is bright green, lush, a bit peppery, and came from the Famiglia Creanza orchard in Puglia, Italy. Tonio Creanza, one of Luis' clients, hosts workshops there, ranging from shepherding and cheesemaking, to art restoration, olive harvesting, and learning about cooking seasonal Puglian food. People who attend the workshops get to slow down and enjoy life, reconnect with the seasons and nature, and become the subject of my envy.
The Larsen family, who runs Le Marché St. George, another client of Luis', is irresistibly magical and comforting. Their rustic European-style coffee shop and general store is nestled in a residential neighborhood. In fact, it's the neighborhood where I spent more than half of my life. Just a few blocks from the house I grew up in, and a stone's throw from my elementary and high school, as well as the house of The Wife, my friend of 21 years, Le Marché is a sanctuary where you may find some calm away from the noise of the city, and lose yourself in its serene atmosphere, artful composition, and inherent natural-ness. Walking in there is like being instantaneously wrapped in a favourite, old, wooly blanket.
Scout Magazine photo credit.Somehow, Marché looks and feels like a dream, but there is nothing fake about it. All is real and tactile. Many of the items on their shelves came from somebody's hands. Produce, straight from the farmers. Cultured butter and artisanal cheeses from a local dairy. Chorizo from a fifth-generation sausage maker whose workspace is a mile down the road. Ceramics, crafted by one of Marché's owners, and olive oil, too, from a family in Puglia.
The very best that you can find, all harboured under one roof. Marché isn't as much a shop, as it is a community and family that fills a gaping niche in our lives. The need for being able to trust a product, a shop, a real, accountable group of people, and to be a part of something honest and meaningful has grown to the point where specialized businesses and craftspeople may flourish, even in today's economy. Anybody who truly cares about the products that fill their kitchen or their home adores Marché and what they stand for.
This is where I came in.
Luis Valdizon photo credit.
Marché, in its incredible space, hosted a special event with Messors, Tonio's company, to promote the upcoming season of workshops with an olive oil tasting and Puglian supper, and were looking to do so again on Sunday the 29th. Luis noted that there weren't any desserts to finish off the beautiful meal that the guests enjoyed, and knowing how much I love to bake for people, hinted that I might like to take on the job.
On Friday night, they said yes! And dessert for 30 it was to be, after I threw some ideas out there and asked about themes and ingredients. At this point I ought to mention how incredibly lucky I am to have a considerate man.
This is also the point where I will warn you, that if you didn't know already, cooks and bakers who adore their craft get super intense and obsessive about every stage and alternate plan of menu composition and execution.
It can be a deeply personal, absolutely maddening, and sometimes, if the cook is lucky, also wonderfully fulfilling process. Every component, ingredient, and technique has to coexist for a reason, be balanced, be well executed, and be as immune to reasonable criticism as possible, or else you just have a plate or bowl of food that doesn't make sense and might taste bad or be ill-prepared. There is a lot of that out in the world. I am terrified of creating it.
As an apron-wearer, I count on a small amount of paranoia from myself, and endless amounts of patience, kindness, forgiveness, and love from those around me to keep me focused, steady, humble, and honest, away from delusions of grandeur. Insecurity is a double-edged Japanese knife. Everyone experiences it, and I am trying to let it push me to grow and produce good work.
Now about the dessert, already: I wanted to make something that wasn't too sweet, and was rustic and inspired by Italian ingredients (and looked handmade), but had a little something extra: Crostata pies, filled with sliced apples tossed in a light coating of fig purée, topped with more fig purée, and finished with toasted sliced almonds, and a scoop of basil-vanilla bean ice cream that was drizzled with Famiglia Creanza's olive oil, then sprinkled with sea salt.
It sounds complicated, but the portions were to be beautifully simple, albeit labour-intensive in production, because our oven is small, batshit crazy, and deserves to be taken apart with a chainsaw. Industrial-sized convection ovens have spoiled me for domestic life.
Luis Valdizon photo credit.
I didn't care about the workload, so long as it could be done properly and leave the guests with sparkling, happy memories.
I was equally excited and panicked, not wanting to disappoint anybody and humiliate myself (or Luis, the people he works for, or the people I work for) in the process. They're Luis' clients, but they welcome us like family, Italians typically love their food to be represented authentically, and also, dear lord, because Marché teamed up with Andrew Morrison and Michelle Sproule, the editor and event coordinator, respectfully, of Scout Magazine, a popular online magazine in Vancouver, to promote the event.
Mr. Morrison is a prominent figure and writer in Vancouver's food scene and I have been reading his work faithfully for years, even before deciding to become a cooker-baker-doer of everything. His writing feels more honest than most because he dares to tell about real opportunities for improvement, especially regarding service, not only singing praises of people who might kiss his ass as most "food critics" do, and he not only knows food, but has also worked in restaurants as well, which I think gives his judgement extra points.
His articles not only influence where people here want to eat, but have also helped me make decisions about where I want to work. I have cooked for him before at two restaurants (without his knowledge), and from the vision and plan of other chefs, so while the concept of sharing my own food with him and his wife would be a great honour, I was scared out of my freakin' mind.
In case you are curious for a few bites of what the rest of that weekend turned into, I broke my No Coffee rule, nipped off a chunk of my thumbnail from working too fast, created a new burn on my arm from working too sleepily, listened to a lot of The Village People on repeat to keep awake, and drove myself ill with worries about the possibility of soggy pastry crust, gritty ice cream, and people laughing and thinking I was stupid for daring to innovate with a cuisine that is so rigid about authenticity and purity. I wondered with some amount of delusion about whether I am actually a good cook, or if I just think my food tastes nice but it is awful in reality.
"Am I a horrible cook? Is this going to end up in the (Not So) Awesome Thing We Ate This Week column? I might seppuku myself with a Wusthof if that happens."
That is why people should not be making food at 4 AM.
If you go to Denny's at 4 AM, you can expect the food will be made by somebody who is probably not having a good time, but in my history of eating there, it also seems to apply for the other 23 hours of the day.
Scout Magazine photo credit.Finally, on Sunday, I rushed home from work, to be carted off to Marché, wine and ice cream in tow.
No matter how tired I am, it makes me anxious to be still when people are busy, and to see so much going on, with opportunities for me to mingle and have fun, but also jump in and help, was a Godsend. I can sleep for 12 hours, but can't sit still.
The night was something that I struggle to describe. Luscious. Full of splendor. Graceful and elegant. Relaxed. The long, communal tables, the secret garden, the lights, the burrata, people making new friends, guests being serenaded with a guitar...it was like everything came out of a story book or off a movie set. It was as if Alice in Wonderland's tea party was happening, but with Italian food, rustic French decorating, Kinfolk magazine's colour palette, and no eccentric animals or hat-wearing people crashing about with whistling teapots. The infrequency of such a welcoming and beautiful event makes it even more noticeably heartwarming than it already was, but some piece of me wishes that life could be like this every day. Just make a big feast, and enjoy sharing it with others.
Luis Valdizon photo credit.
We were lucky and able to serve dinner outside, in the fading sunshine, but when rain began to sprinkle, everyone moved inside the storefront to enjoy dessert, where I had been nervously readying the pies, and hoping that people wouldn't ask for their money back after tasting them.
I prepare food decisively and confidently after receiving direction, so it's quite absurd to have felt like such a wreck while sailing off in a little boat for my own voyage, but that is what it comes down to. The chef's idea and execution are what the guests are brought, and if they don't like it, the chef is holding the bag. Yikes.
After bringing everyone plates, we were standing in a room full of people who were eating delightedly, and I thought about how this was pretty much all I wanted from life.
Scout Magazine photo credit.Good food and people full of cheer.
What relief.
Everyone sang Happy Birthday to me (oh yeah, it was that time of year...), in a rosy, familiar place, that was lit with smiles, candles and string lights.
It was beautiful and unforgettable. I teared up. A guest even gave me a hug.
I was gleeful and could have died right then and there; the only awful things about it would have been not getting to say goodbye to people, or open a little restaurant one day and continue spreading this joy. That and maybe traumatizing a bunch of people at a party.
I wanted to impress everyone, and thank them, and leave them happy, hoping that pulling it off would prove to myself that I was capable of doing this right.
A coworker asked me earlier, "Wait, you're working on your birthday? At two places?"
Absolutely. It's a great gift to be given the opportunity to do what I love, for people that I care about.
Between my job, making desserts, and the party, I had been on my feet, working, for 40 hours, and it didn't matter.
The mission was completed honorably.
I collapsed once at home, and slept like a rock.
That is what it means to be a cook.
My chefs in school said that cooking is like a dance, and you become better with moves as you rehearse.
I believe that cooking is like a dance because like ballet, if you take it too seriously, your art will eventually destroy you. If you let it.
Screengrab from Scout Magazine.It could be a beautiful death, yet I strive for balance, because maybe I have less to be scared of, to do with execution, or reception.
The Little Slice Of Pie That Could ended up on Scout Magazine, featured in its The Daily Dope and Awesome Thing We Ate This Week columns.
Luis texted me about it during a busy lunch service, and I almost dropped everything and started jumping on the counters to do one of those victory dances you can expect after a football player scores a touchdown.
Sometimes this line of work is similar to being an artist. I constantly wonder if anything that I do with food will have some type of permanence, and give somebody an amazing feeling that they might remember in the future. Seeing that I was headed in the right direction filled me with such gratitude. A lot of cooks act like they're so badass and don't need anybody's approval, but giving people an experience is what the foundation of our business is built upon, and it's crucial to never lose sight of this.
Andrew and Michelle are staggeringly nice and encouraging, to boot. They are a total star team to work with, and we all were so incredibly blessed to have them take part in this event, and break bread with us.
I hope to cook for them again soon.
It's truly a privilege to be in the company of such amazingly talented and kind people. Thank you, everyone.
Kari
For more coverage of the Puglian Supper nights, visit the following links for Le Marché and Scout. Keep your eyes peeled for future events, you never know what we might be up to next!
Le Marché St. George
Event Coverage: Creanza Olive Oil tasting & Puglian Dinner N° 002
Scout Magazine x Le Marche St. George Present x Famiglia Creanza
Event Coverage: Creanza Olive Oil tasting & Puglian Dinner
Scout Magazine
Seen In Vancouver #363: The Puglian Supper In The Back Garden Of Le Marche St. George
AWESOME THING WE ATE #864: Crostada Of Apple & Almond, Basil Ice Cream & Olive Oil
Le Marche St. George & Scout To Present An Intimate Italian Supper On Sunday (Sold Out)
Scout Magazine photo credit.
Scout Magazine photo credit.
Scout Magazine photo credit.
Scout Magazine photo credit.
Luis Valdizon photo credit.
Luis Valdizon photo credit.
Luis Valdizon photo credit.